INTRODUCTION:

Nowhere has the mobility industry changed so drastically as in the
development and refinement of power chairs and scooters.  The
selection of power equipment is mind boggling.  For those not
familiar,  "power chair" refers to a wheelchair that is controlled
electronically- usually (but not always) by a "joystick".  "Scooters"
refer to 3 and 4 vehicles that require arm strength to steer- usually
through a "bicycle handlebar" in front of the user.   As the industry
advances, the distinctions between the two sometimes get fuzzy.  For
example, there are scooters out there that have "joystick"
adaptations to them- a couple of models let the user decide what s/he
wants to do that day: joystick or handlebar.  And one of the most
popular conventional "power chairs" is made by Pride: a scooter
manufacturer- and it has a scooter seat on it.

Scooters come in various sizes, in both 3 wheeled and 4 wheeled
versions, and in one battery (12 volt) and 2 battery (24 volt)
versions.  Today, most scooters with a 24 volt system are rear drive-
better because the weight of the user is over the drive wheels for
more traction- particularly when going up ramps.  I do not recommend a
12 volt front drive system for any use but strictly indoors on a hard
surface with a user under 110 lbs.  Many scooters disassemble into
smaller components for transporting in a trunk of an automobile (see
 "Traveling with wheelchairs", for information on devices that can 
load the scooter into the trunk), and the heaviest component can run 
from 30 to 40 lbs.

Many models can be purchased with a seat that the user can raise
electrically several inches to help  get on and off  it as well as to
reach items that would otherwise be to high to reach.  Most have seats
that swivel.  This helps in getting on and off and means that a user
can drive next to a table and then swivel to the table without getting
off the scooter.

Scooters can be purchased with "light packages" that include head,
tail, and sometimes turn signals.  Rear view mirrors are also
available, as well as baskets, cane and crutch holders, etc.

With all these features, they appear to be a miniature car- but should
NEVER be used in an automobile traffic environment.  Drivers 
cannot always see scooters (even with red flags on them), and they are so
slow compared to a car (usually under 5 mph) that they pose a major
threat to the user when mixed with automobiles.  A very nice pamphlet on 
DRIVING SAFETY  has been produced and can be  viewed by clicking here. 
(used with permission). 

Most 24 volt scooters have a range of around 18 miles between charges.
This works out to about 3 days in Disney World without recharging, and
many models have built in chargers to make it easier (though I am not
a big fan of onboard chargers- the dust and vibration associated with
"travel" does cause greater failures.  And with an 18 mile range, who
needs to carry a charger wherever they go?).  Do understand that the
batteries will have to be replaced on a regular basis- usually once a
year, sometimes more often, sometimes less often.  As the batteries
age, the range between charges of the scooter decreases.   See my article on 
BATTERIES  for detailed information.


Just about every rear drive scooter has automatic braking that brings
it to a predictable stop and then locks it until the "throttle" is
touched for movement.  Forward and reverse is usually selected by
pressing a throttle lever near the handle bars- right thumb for forward, left
for reverse (can be set up differently for left hand drive, etc).
Pressing the lever further makes the scooter go faster.

Speed can usually be "limited" by a dial on the "dashboard" that
usually includes a key switch, horn and "fuel gauge".

4 WHEELED SCOOTERS:

3 wheeled scooters (the most common) have been around for many years
now, and have "mutated" into 4 wheeled versions.  The advantage of 4
wheels (one in each corner) is greater stability (less chance of
tipping over) and the ability to carry a heavier person (weight
distributed over 33% more area).  Just about every major 3 wheel
scooter has a 4 wheel version as well.

The disadvantages of 4 wheeled scooters is a wider turning radius
(making them somewhat unwieldy indoors) and heavier/bulkier to
transport in small vehicles.  Obviously they cost a bit more as well.

SIZE:

Every major scooter manufacturer makes their scooters in various
sizes, sometimes with different sized motors for the larger units.
Larger units may have larger seats, larger tires, as well as the
larger motors- some larger scooters even have bigger batteries.

It is important to point out that the size of the scooter purchased
should be determined by the needs of the user in terms of where it is
being driven, the size and weight of the user, and comfort- not just
which scooter fits into the trunk of a particular car.

There are several very small scooters on the market.  Some work better
than others.  One that advertises itself as a "folding" scooter is both
underpowered and frankly, not all the light- even when disassembled!

Others available are rear drive, 24 volt systems (better), but with a
very, very short range, a maximum drive weight of 200 pounds, and are 
NOT FDA approved (important if you want insurance to reimburse).  The folding
scooter is, to the best of my knowledge, not FDA approved either.
Shop carefully and ask the right questions.

Conversely, scooters are not "all terrain vehicles" and shouldn't be
purchased as such.  Nor are they golf cars.  While larger units with
larger tires will go on grass (so will some smaller ones if the grass
is not too high and the ground is hard), they bog down in soft soil
and use in sand is an absolute no no.  The user's weight has a lot to
do with "off road" performance as well.

PRICE VS QUALITY:

The saying "you get what you pay for" does not apply with scooters.
Some of the best units available cost around $2,000 and some of the
worst made cost twice that amount.  Price of the unit is determined
much more on how it is sold rather than quality.  Some companies put
literally tens of millions of dollars into media advertising every
year, and guess who pays for that?

Others have commissioned sales people going to your home to sell.
While that is very nice for people who cannot "get out", the purchaser
often pays over $1,000 as a salesman's commission.   The purchaser is
paying for all the visits and in-home demonstrations (to other people)
that did not turn into sales.  Some companies combine the two: lots of
expensive TV ads coupled with high pressured salespeople (sometimes
traveling in packs of two or more).  That is not how I choose to do
business.  See "DEALER VS FACTORY DIRECT" further in this article for important
warnings regarding "direct" in-home sales.

SELECTING A SCOOTER:

If you have read this far, it is obvious that I recommend selecting a dealer 
(actually 2 or 3) and trying the equipment out 
in an environment where various makes, models, and sizes can be compared
side by side and test driven.  Many dealers will provide in-home
demonstrations, but you will be limited in comparisons that way.  Most
competent dealers sell more than one brand and will be more than happy
to point out the differences and features between the various
manufacturers.

I recommend finding 2 or 3 dealers that sell the same brands.  That
way you are not "locked in" to a particular dealer for service.  If
the dealer knows you cannot go elsewhere, s/he is more likely to take
advantage of you, and if a "dispute" does arise, you will not have the
option to go "down the street".  "Exclusive" (one dealer per area)
brands tend to go out of business more often than "popular" brands- 
and many times parts are not available once a scooter manufacturer 
goes out of business.  The chance of getting parts under those 
circumstances is greater is a particular scooter is popular 
(with the dealers) in your area (more good new and used parts floating around).

You can also play one dealer against another to get a better deal.
See my section on selecting a dealer for more details- particularly in
terms of service and selection.

WARRANTIES are important.  Please see my section on warranties for some 
important information.

DEALER VS "FACTORY DIRECT",
"Usually, local medical supply houses are the best source of electric scooters, 
not door-to-door salesmen," -Joe Scinto of the United Seniors Health Cooperative, 
a not-for-profit Washington, D.C. consumer organization.
Obviously, by being a dealer, I'm biased, but the "factory-to-you" problem 
is so great that two independent organizations have written "warning" 
articles due to the number of complaints they have received-  regarding "in-home, 
factory direct" sales!,  Links to those articles are:
 The National Council on the Aging. and: ConsumerAffairs.Com 
A new browser window will open.

The problem becomes even greater when the "factory direct" equipment 
requires service.  I get calls on a regular basis from people who are 
tired of waiting for the "factory" repair person to have enough service 
calls in this area to make it worth while to make a trip, and from 
customers who had a salesperson show up with or instead of the technician 
to pronounce an older scooter "dead"- without even looking at it first.

DOMESTIC vs IMPORTED:

No, not beer.  There has been a flood of imported scooters into the 
country lately. Unfortunately the distributor(s) may decide to leave the 
market (USA)- which could mean no source of parts.  This has happened 
several times in the past with Fortress Scientific (see related article,  
Sportster (now back in the country, but for how long?), Abec, Wheelster 
and others.  When they go: no parts!  Domestic scooter manufacturers 
have fared better (fewer gone out of business) and we can usually find 
the sources of their parts to continue to support the products.

I have more details in my Selecting a Power Chair section.

Scooters do not cost as much as a power chair, so the "crisis" is not as 
great if the manufacturer or distributor goes out of business, but its 
still your $$$ as risk.  If you  must  buy "foreign", I suggest 
products imported by the large domestic manufacturers (particuaraly Pride 
and Invacare).  They will continue to support the products for 
"goodwill".  Example: Invacare sells products also imported by Shoprider- 
and at the same price.

SCOOTER "FAQ"s":

Q: I have a severe respiratory problem which prohibits me from walking
   any distance.  I was thinking of getting a scooter  but don't know
   if I would have more problems getting the scooter to and from my
   destination for walking or try to struggle with just taking a few
   steps at a time.  I have a 1987 Bonnevile.

A: Your car is probably large enough to accommodate a lifting device
(I call it a crane) that will pick up the scooter and deposit it into
the trunk.  The seat will have to be removed and the tiller either
removed or folded down (depending on the scooter) to close the trunk
lid.  The seat can be stowed in the back seat of the car.

Some brands come apart into smaller pieces to be hand loaded into the
trunk, with the heaviest piece weighing about the same as a standard
wheelchair.  Disassembly is under a minute with no tools.

I do not recommend any device that keeps the scooter outside the car
on a platform.  They wreck both the car and the scooter in a very
short period of time.  Another option is to examine your travel area
to see if the scooter will work without the car.  Most newer scooters
have a range of about 18 miles, and travel up to 5 mph.  They are not
for use on public roadways, though.  Many public transportation
companies can accommodate them on their buses, trains, etc.

Q: What is better, a power wheelchair or a 3 or 4 wheel scooter? I
   need to be able to put it in and out of my car.  I am able to walk,
   but arthritis is taking its toll...  I weigh 90 lbs.  Also, should
   I buy from a catalog, dealer, or the "factory direct" salesman who
   always calls me.

A:  If you can handle a scooter I would go with that.  (details
    further in post).  Even a "portable" power chair will weigh over
    75lbs without batteries to load into a car and won't go over the
    grass as well as the correct scooter.  At your (light) weight,
    however, you could get by with the electric wheelchair if you are
    not going to load it into a car's trunk.

The advantage of a scooter is it's ability to be taken apart for
loading (or the use of a "crane" to load it for you into the trunk-
trunk lifting devices have not been perfected yet for electric
wheelchairs that fold) and that scooter prices are cheaper to purchase nd 
maintain then even the cheapest electric wheelchairs.

You will need a 2 battery (24volt) rear drive scooter with reasonable
ground clearance.  What ever you decide to get- make sure you purchase
it locally from a dealer with a service department.  You will get the
best service and price if you have 2 dealers with the same equipment
fighting it out for your business.  Having another dealer to go back
to for repairs (other than the one you purchased from) will keep the
first dealer "honest"-and disputes do happen between customers and
dealers- its good to have a backup dealer.

I don't recommend factory sold products because of the way its
sold/serviced and you will be at their mercy when the scooter breaks
down.  Similarly, don't buy mail order.  Make sure the selling dealer
has his own service department rather than "contracting" to a third
party (as many drug stores do).  These  scooters will break down and
the service is important.

High Price does not mean high quality, either.  

All the information provided herein is Copyright © 1993 1994 1995
1996 1997 1998 1999 2000, & 2001 Stuart L. Portner.  All rights reserved.  May be 
printed and
reproduced for individual use, but may not be distributed without the
permission of the author.  


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